You need not travel far in Bangkok to find the trappings of modern civilization giving way to historical treasures. The Grand Palace, a fantastic complex with gilded stupas (domelike shrines to Buddha), is a living monument where people go to pay homage to the Buddha and their king. The National Museum houses Thai art and artifacts from Neolithic times forward. Performances of traditional religious and court dances take place at the Thai Cultural Center, a polished modern venue. The Erawan Shrine offers a glimpse of the old rituals manifested in daily life.

Along with the National Museum and the Sanam Luang field, the initial nine historic sites below are all in the same area—the old royal city, where the king and a vast number of relatives ran the country until 1932. You could conceivably cover these on foot in a single day. But due to the heat, you might want to catch a tuk-tuk or taxi between a few of them.

The National Museum. This is the largest collection of Thai art and artifacts in the country, from Neolithic times to the present. Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-noon and 1-4 pm. Admission: 40 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for Thais. Next to the National Theater and Thammasat University, 4 Na Prathat Rd., phone 224-1333.

Lumpini Park. Bangkok’s foremost park offers profuse exotic greenery to shade you from the afternoon heat. Jogging track and two lakes with rowboat rentals (40 baht per hour). Daily 5 am-8 pm. Free. Rama IV Road.

Except for Magic Land and the Snake Farm, all the destinations listed below can be reached by daily bus tours from hotels and agencies all over town. They’re often in combinations. One popular package, for example, will take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, the Rose Garden and Samphran Elephant Grounds.

Chao Phraya River and Canals. See another side of Bangkok by exploring its waterways. Small waterside markets and countless homes line the banks of these busy channels. Charter boats are plentiful. You can hire them independently or book them through reliable tour companies. The docks (tha) close to the Royal Orchid Sheraton and the Shangri-La, as well as Tha Tien—close to the Royal Palace—are good places to hire them. Fares depend on your bargaining power, but 300 baht for a tour of a few hours would be a good price, no matter the number of passengers. Klong Bangkok Noi, Klong Chak Phra and Klong Sanam Chair, Wat Arun and the royal barges are worth exploring. Other transportation choices are water taxis and long-tailed boats.

Air-conditioned buses and taxis are convenient ways to tour Bangkok. But consider cruising the river and canals on a modest long-tail boat, or go for broke on the five-star yacht The Oriental Queen. If you’re walking—which may be the best way to experience Bangkok—wear comfortable shoes and take a good map.

Wat Banchamabophit is in the Dusit area, walking distance from the zoo and Vimanmek Palace. Wat Trai Mitr is on the eastern edge of Chinatown, a stone’s throw from Hualampontg Railway Station.

The National Gallery. Near the National Museum and not as impressive, this gallery exhibits contemporary and traditional works of art. Admission: 10 baht. Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-4 pm. 4 Chao Fa Rd., phone 281-2224.

Out toward the airport is Chatuchak Park. This huge expanse of landscaped grounds, with a jogging track and a large lake where you can rent rowboats (40 baht per hour), is a great place to visit before or after shopping at the Weekend Market. Daily 5 am-9 pm. Free. Phahalyothin Road.

Magic Land. Some good rides and games for kids. Daily 10 am-6 pm. Admission: 60 baht adults, 50 baht children. On the north side of town, out toward the airport, 72 Phahloyothin Rd., phone 579-0806.

If you have the energy, Chinatown can be fun to visit, with its beautiful traditional Chinese temples, multitudes of shops and constant activity. This is one of the busiest parts of Bangkok: Many of the roads narrow to one lane and crisscross the canals, and there aren’t many traffic lights, so be careful when crossing the street. For a quick walk-through, begin at the intersection of Pahurat and Ban Mo Roads, just south of Wat Po, and walk east until your feet get tired. Chances are you’ll run out of steam before Chinatown runs out of streets. The pink-tinged Nancy Chandler map includes a detailed map of Chinatown’s delights.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. The Grand Palace is the most famous structure in all of Thailand. Originally built for King Rama I in the late 18th century, it has evolved into a vast, golden city, a temple compound and a mecca for this country’s predominantly Buddhist population. Wat Phra Kaew, the most important structure inside the walled compound, houses the Emerald Buddha. Carved from a single block of jade, this ancient, holy object rests on a magnificent altar and is said to be a protector of whoever possesses it. Often the booty of war since its discovery in the 15th century, the statue was last looted from Vientiane by King Rama I.

Vimanmek Mansion Museum. The world’s largest teak house, built by King Rama V in the late 1800s as a summer palace. With 100 rooms, it’s a fine tribute to Thai architecture and art. You can’t walk around on your own. Instead there are free guided tours, in English, every half hour, starting at 9:30 am. At 2 pm there’s a free demonstration of Thai dance in the foyer. Open daily 9:30 am-4 pm. Admission: 50 baht. Next to the Dusit Zoo, on Ratchasima Road, phone 281-1569.

Sanam Luang. These large, oval, open grounds are best enjoyed in the evening. Aside from a ring of trees around its perimeter, the park offers little escape from the afternoon sun. Kite flying and watching sunsets over the gilded Grand Palace are favorite activities. Across from the Grand Palace.

Samphran Elephant Grounds & Zoo. Set within landscaped gardens and ponds on the outskirts of Bangkok, this is the best place in Thailand to see elephants in action. Daily shows feature everything from the reenactment of an 18th-century Thai battle with soldiers and armored elephants to circus-style antics and elephant-polo matches. Also see a crocodile show, a small zoo and an orchid farm. Shows start at 10 am weekdays, 12:45 pm on weekends. Daily 8 am-6 pm. Admission: 220 baht adults, 120 baht children. Petchkasem Road, near the Rose Garden, phone 284-1873.

World Travel Service specializes in early-morning boat tours to the floating markets. Leave the Oriental Hotel’s pier at 7:40 am and return by noon. 450 baht a person. Reservations required. 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0400.

A few rules for visiting the Grand Palace: no shorts or sleeveless shirts; no photography inside the building that houses the Emerald Buddha; women must not touch the monks! Open daily, but occasionally closed for ceremonies and other occasions. Don’t save it for your last day (most people want to see it more than once). 8:30 am-3:30 pm. Admission: 125 baht. Entrance is on Na Phra Lan Road, phone 222-0094 or 222-6889.

The Jim Thompson House. Another fine example of Thai architecture, this one filled with rare art and antiques once owned by the U.S. citizen who revitalized the silk industry in Thailand. Since his puzzling disappearance in 1968, his former residence has become a popular tourist attraction. Admission is 100 baht for adults, 40 baht for children. Open daily 9 am-4 pm. 6 Soi Kaseman 2, Rama I Road, phone 215-0122.

King Rama IX Royal Park. Set on 200 acres/80 hectares, this park was opened to commemorate the current king’s 60th birthday. It offers botanical gardens and great spots for picnicking. Lying 15 mi/24 km outside the city center, it’s a bit inconvenient but worth the drive if you’re yearning for cleaner air, and it’s far less crowded than the three listed above. Daily 6 am-6 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Soi Udomsuk, Sukhumvit Soi 23.

Rose Garden. A beautifully landscaped resort with orchid and rose gardens, aviaries and a re-created Thai village. Offers a spectacular one-hour cultural show with all the Thai trimmings—dance, martial arts, religious ceremonies and elephants. Open daily 8 am-6 pm. Admission: 200 baht. 20 mi/32 km west of Bangkok.

Wat Po. Next to the Grand Palace, this is one of Bangkok’s oldest temples and it’s famous for its numerous ceramic-tiled stupas and gold-plated reclining Buddha. (Check out the mother-of-pearl inlay on the soles of his feet!) Daily 8 am-5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Thye Wang and Sanam Chai Road, phone 222-0933.

The Shed of the Royal Barges. North of the Grand Palace, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the Shed houses gilded vessels once used for war and currently used by the king for ceremonies of religious importance. Similar to ancient Viking boats but more ornate, these royal yachts are a spectacle even on land. Klong (canal) tours often stop here. Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Admission: 30 baht, but if you want to take pictures, it’s an additional 100 baht for a permit. Klong Bangkok Noi, phone 424-0004.

Crocodile Farm. If you yearn to see crocodiles, the Crocodile Farm has more than 30,000 of them. Daily shows and lots of interesting exhibits. Open every day 7 am-6 pm. Admission: 300 baht. Samut Prakarn, phone 387-1166.

Lak Muang. A small temple that contains the foundation stone of the city, this attracts many locals who believe the stone has the power to grant wishes. If you’re lucky, you may see traditional lakhon dancing in the nearby open-air sala. The dancers have been paid by the faithful whose wishes have been granted by the foundation spirit. Open 24 hours daily. Free. Located on Sanam Chai Road (between Chareon Krung Road and Bam Rung Muang Road) on the east side of the Grand Palace.

The Snake Farm, near the city center, is great fun for kids and adults alike. Run by the Red Cross as a center for collecting venom (to make antitoxin), you can watch as handlers milk poison from cobras, black mambas and other fearsome snakes. Daily shows 10:30 am and 2 pm. 30 baht adults, children free. Adjacent to the Red Cross Building, corner of Rama IV and Henri Dunant Roads, phone 252-0161 or 252-0162.

Wat Suthat. Located a mile east of the Grand Palace, this temple from the mid 1800s is an interesting blend of Thai and Chinese architecture. It houses some lovely Buddhist relics and ornate murals. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Tri Thong and Bam Rung Muang Roads.

Safari World. Twenty minutes outside of Bangkok, Safari World contains two smaller parks: Marine Park and Safari Park. Safari Park offers drive-through viewing of Asian and African animals as well as daily shows (at 9 am, 1 pm and 4 pm) featuring birds, orangutans and elephants. Marine Park has dolphins and sea lions. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Admission to Safari World: 400 baht for foreign adults, 280 baht for Thai adults, 300 baht for foreign children, 180 baht for Thai children. Admission to Marine Park: 240 baht. Admission to Safari Park: 160 baht plus 400 baht for a show. 99 Raminda 1 Rd., Minburi, phone 518-1000, ext. 232.

Wat Saket. Built in the late 1700s, Wat Saket is one of the oldest temples in the city. Its grounds served as a cremation site for common people. It’s easy to spot because of a prominent landmark—the Golden Mount—that rises on its grounds. It looks like a yellow cement hill and is believed to house Buddhist relics. It’s worth climbing up for the view. Open daily 8 am-5 pm. Admission is 10 baht. Entrance to Wat Saket between Boriphat Road and Lan Luang Road, south of Democracy Monument.

Democracy Monument. Trapped in a huge traffic circle, this monument with its 24-ft-/7-m-high granite wings is an easy landmark to spot. It was built in 1939 to celebrate the 1932 overthrow of the absolute monarchy. The designer was much inspired by Italian fascist architecture. In the area between here and Sanam Luang, democracy demonstrators were massacred by the army in 1973, 1976 and 1992. The offerings at this monument honor these dead. Ratchadamnern and Lan Luang Roads, Baan Lampoo, 1 mi/1.6 km east of the Chao Phraya River.

Wat Benchamabophit. Splendid, symmetrical architecture, with gold and lacquer decorations. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Sri Ayutthaya Road, phone 281-2501.

Wat Tri Mitr houses the famous 14th-century Golden Buddha. Primarily of gold, it weighs more than 10,000 pounds. It was discovered under an unremarkable cement veneer in 1954, where it had lain hidden for hundreds of years. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Traimit Road.

Erawan Shrine. Next to the Grand Hyatt Hotel, it’s a small, simple, open-air sanctuary containing a four-headed bronze Brahman sculpture that’s highly revered by Buddhists worldwide. Built by the hotel for good luck, the modest little shrine has become a Buddhist mecca. Because of miracles attributed to the goddess at this site, Buddhists from around the world come to make offerings and requests, usually in matters of love or in hopes of winning the lottery. The shrine is one of the best places to see traditional religious dances. Get up early to see the dancers commissioned by people who are making sincere offerings. Open 24 hours. Free. Corner of Ratchadamri and Ploenchit Roads across from Gaysorn Plaza.