Bangkok can soothe or ruffle, depending upon your circumstances. If you’re contemplating the sunrise at Wat Arun temple along the Chao Phraya River, you’ll marvel at what peace can be found in the midst of such a chaotic metropolis. But if you’re stuck in a typically nasty traffic jam, you’ll wonder if any magnificent sight or the warmth of Thai people could possibly be worth the frustration of trying to get from one place to the next.

Today’s Bangkok serves as illustration of the fortunes befalling the Asian Tigers—countries whose economies emerged from the shadows of the Third World and grew by leaps and bounds. Most of Bangkok’s deluxe hotels and gleaming skyscrapers have sprung up just since 1987. Thailand had for a decade one of the fastest-growing economies in the world, fueled by Japanese investment. But in mid 1997, gross economic mismanagement, corruption and reckless borrowing culminated in a major crash. Ultimately, the baht, its currency, lost half its value.

What does this mean for the tourist? While the baht is beginning to regain some of its strength, Australians, Britons, Canadians and citizens of the U.S. can still get much better exchange rates than they could prior to July 1997. Even the poshest hotels and restaurants are scrambling for guests. The picture is mixed, however; imports, such as wine, will cost more.

BIRD’S-EYE VIEW

Bangkok has been called a city of villages, and its various districts range from near primitive squalor to high-tech gleam. The one constant is the terrible traffic, which almost everyone predicts will get worse before it gets better. Fifty years ago, when Bangkok still had hundreds of canals (klongs), it was called the Venice of the East. Today, most of the canals have been filled in and paved over, adding more congested roads.

Old Bangkok sits on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River: It encompasses Parliament and several ministries as well as important landmarks such as the Grand Palace, the Democracy Monument, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Po) and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). The old section also includes commercial areas such as Banglampoo Market. Government House, which contains the office of the prime minister, and Chitralada Royal Palace, home of the king and queen, are just northeast of Old Bangkok.

Most businesses and hotels are located in the city center, east/southeast of Old Bangkok in the Silom and Sukhumvit areas. The Sukhumvit Road district is the tourist heart of the city, with many fine restaurants and high-rise hotels. The Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza nightlife areas thrive there, as well as tailors, antique dealers and movie theaters. The infamous red-light district, Patpong Road, is located in the Silom area. Around Ploenchit Road-Rama I Road (at Phyathi Road) is Bangkok’s major shopping hub with blocks upon blocks of shops.

Across the river is Thonburi, the former capital of Thailand and now a part of Greater Bangkok. North of the city is the busy Din Daeng/Lat Phrao commercial district. Farther north still is Don Muang, site of the international airport.

Note: In reading an address, be aware that the number following the street name is a soi number. A soi is a small side street or alley. In an address, the first numbers usually indicate a building, followed by a street name and then a soi number. Example: 21/3 Sukhumvit 11 would mean that the building 21/3 is off Sukhumvit Road and down Soi 11.

ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS

This isn’t the greatest city for kids, but they’ll enjoy seeing the animals at the Dusit Zoo or the venom-milking demonstrations at the Red Cross Snake Farm. The small longtail boats running regularly from Phra Sumen Bridge or Wat Saket to the train station are exciting, yet involve fewer hassles than the bigger boat lines. There’s always running around Lumpini Park or on the great flat field of Sanam Luang.

Out of town, two crocodile farms offer crocodile wrestling; Ancient City provides miniature replicas of Thai monuments and temples, as well as elephant rides; and that sanitized theme park, the Rose Garden, provides swimming pools, elephant rides and tricks, as well as demonstrations of Thai kick boxing and—parents, please note—cockfighting.

CITYSCAN

In July 1997 the baht was unpegged from the U.S. dollar and allowed to float. Until then, and for a decade before, 25 baht had been roughly equivalent to US$1. In the following months, the baht depreciated 50%: 50 baht could buy US$1. Although the baht at this writing has strengthened, it has not stabilized.

At press time, the exchange rate was 24 baht for one Australian dollar, 64 baht for one British pound sterling, 27 baht for one Canadian dollar and 39 baht for one U.S. dollar.

Note: All prices in this report are in local currency.

You’re much more likely to contract dengue fever than malaria. It’s not nearly as serious as malaria, at least when caught the first time. But it does cause a week-long, excruciating headache.

A nonlethal strain of cholera, causing severe diarrhea, is not common enough to warrant a vaccine, which is only 50% effective. Follow the usual rules regarding clean food, and be especially cautious in the rainy season, when streets and basements flood.

Hepatitis A is prevalent in Thailand, but if you follow the usual precautions regarding clean food and bottled water, you’re unlikely to catch it during a short visit to Bangkok. If you plan travels to other parts of the developing world, however, vaccinations against both hepatitis A and hepatitis B are good investments.

If you have a slight case of diarrhea, resist the urge to run to a local doctor—most are quick to prescribe an antibiotic whether there’s reason to or not. If your ailment continues for more than three or four days, see a doctor. Drugstores are plentiful in Bangkok, and you don’t need a prescription to purchase medicine, which is generally reliable.

Be very cautious around animals: Incidents of rabies are extremely high in rural areas and not unknown in Bangkok.

Tap water is treated, but to varying degrees, so it’s best to drink either boiled or bottled water. (Sometimes restaurants will serve water that seems to have a slightly brown cast to it. This is actually a good sign—they’ve boiled the water and thrown in a tea leaf to prove it.) The better hotels have filtration systems.

Bangkok is crowded with street vendors selling everything from omelettes to dessert crepes saturated in sugar and sweetened condensed milk. The general rule of thumb is that if it’s hot and prepared right in front of you, it’s probably safe, but stay away from stalls that prepare food in advance or aren’t conscientious about brushing away flies. Outside of the large hotels, sanitation is not up to the standards of industrialized countries (this applies to street stands and open-air restaurants; enclosed restaurants usually maintain high standards of food preparation). Hot, freshly cooked food should be safe if the meat is well done. Peel raw fruits and vegetables.

Although many visitors from other countries claim they “love curries,” Thai curries affect some digestive systems differently from others. Ask that foods be mai pet (without too many chili peppers and hot sauces) when starting your culinary explorations and then gradually work up to the intense spices.

O.B. appears to be the generic word for tampons in Bangkok. They’re scarce, but may be found in shops of big hotels and drugstores near them. Sanitary napkins of every dimension are sold in 7-11 and many other stores.

AIDS is a serious problem everywhere, and Thailand is no exception so condom is a must, and it’s wise to avoid intimate contact with the prostitutes in adult entertainment areas such as Patpong.

As far as business dress goes, it’s impossible to overdress. Man or woman, you can’t go wrong in a business suit, no matter what the temperature is. Just pray for air-conditioning. Women are advised not to wear too much makeup.

Rules for restaurant attire are much more liberal. Very few require a jacket and tie.

For tourists, shorts, T-shirts and sandals are acceptable—but just barely. You should know that you are instantly identifying yourself as a tourist, and that many Thais take exception to exposed skin. Aside from prostitutes, it’s a rare Thai or expatriate woman who will wear sleeveless blouses or shorts in public (with exception of fashion from time to time). Not many Thai men wear shorts. Plastic flip-flops with a thong between the toes are looked down upon. When visiting religious monuments and temples, long pants or skirts are mandated (and note that shoes should be removed before entering religious shrines, private homes and some businesses—the pile of shoes outside the door will tip you off).

Show the greatest respect toward temples, wats and shrines and all Buddhist images. Women must not sit next to or touch monks. If you have to hand a monk something, pass it to a man to hand to him or place the object on a table or the floor.

The head is the highest and most respected, sacred part of the body, the foot is the lowest. Do not pat a Thai on the head. Do not sit with your feet pointed at a Thai, as it is a show of gross disrespect. Do not use your feet to point at an object, such as luggage. When entering a Thai home or a temple, remove your shoes. Never, never lose your temper, because it’s a terrible loss of face—you will lose the respect and goodwill of all watching. Thais believe that a chai yen (cool heart) brings results.

Although we have become adept handshakers, Thais usually greet each other by placing their hands together, palms touching and held close to the body between the face and the chest. This form of greeting is called the wai and is often accompanied by a slight bow. Given a wai, one replies in kind.

Don’t wear expensive jewelry or watches when touring, and especially not after dark. Put them in the safe in your hotel room or at the front desk. Be sure to keep credit cards secure; if they’re left in hotel rooms, they can be stolen. Beware of pickpockets on overcrowded public transportation, and stay on well-lit streets after dark. Consult your hotel’s concierge or front-desk staff if you’re unsure whether an activity or area is safe.

Don’t take prostitutes (or, for that matter, any stranger) to your room. You’re exposing yourself not only to serious health risks, but also to the possibility of robbery. Don’t buy drugs (readily available in Bangkok). Many drug dealers turn around and report the buyer to the police for a reward.

If you stay at a luxury hotel, taking someone to your room (you know what it means) is not welcome. You might have to pay extra for that, about 1,000. Not that they want your money they just don't want you to bring any because it's not good for thier image.

Police who stop you on the street without reason and ask to see a passport probably have evil intentions. Never get into a police car under such circumstances. Disregard tuk-tuk drivers and other chatty folk who will tell you an attraction is “closed today.” (They’re hoping to take you on a shopping tour.) Don’t talk, either, to the well-dressed, middle-aged, mobile-phoned Asian men who strike up conversations near Erawan Shrine and the intersection of Surawong and Rama IV Roads. Be skeptical of tourists who approach you saying they’ve run out of money. Don’t accept drinks or candy from anyone while on a train or bus, no matter how innocent it may seem, or rude to refuse. (The offering may be laced with drugs to induce sleep while the friendly local makes off with your luggage.)

A few years ago the Bangkok city government passed a tough litter control measure aimed at cleaning up the city. As you will see, it has had no effect whatever. Nonetheless, you should heed the bilingual posters threatening fines of 2,000 baht. You can be fined US$50 for dropping a cigarette butt.

Should you get into trouble, Bangkok has a large, helpful and friendly force of tourist police who speak English. They’re headquartered at 29/1 Unico Building, Soi Lang Suan, Ploenchit Road, phone 1699 or 652-1721. For further help, call the Tourist Assistance Center, 282-8129 or 281-5051. As with most Thai agencies that deal with tourists, English is spoken to some degree. To boost your chances of being understood over the phone, speak slowly and enunciate.

In the event of a serious problem, contact the appropriate diplomatic headquarters: the Australian Embassy, 37 S. Sathorn Rd., phone 287-6280, the British Embassy, 1031 Wittayu (Wireless) Rd., phone 253-0191/9; the Canadian Embassy, 11th Floor, Boonmitr Building, 138 Silom Rd., phone 237-4125; or the U.S. Embassy, 95 Wittayu (Wireless) Rd., next to the Imperial Hotel, phone 252-5040. Click here for the rest of the list.

Dial 13 for Directory Assistance, and be patient: An English speaker will be found. Listings are neither comprehensive nor up to date. Few of the public telephones work. The few that are equipped for international calls are clearly marked. Those labeled in yellow Long-Distance signify that they’re for long-distance calls within Thailand. Fees for using phones from hotel rooms are steep, but few hotels have public phones in their lobbies; therefore, those in the city on business may want to rent a mobile phone from their hotel. Prices will hover around US$15 per day, with additional charges per call. Expect erratic reception.